Here is a free pattern for fingerless mitts in worsted weight yarn. They are basic ribbed mitts with some twisted stitches thrown in to break up the boredom of knitting them. Also, twisted stitches add a little something, don’t you think?

 

I’m pretty picky when it comes to fingerless mitts. I want them to nip in at the wrist. Hate wrist sag. I like shaped thumbs that aren’t fancy. I ignore the gusset hole at the base of the thumb as I’m knitting. It gets closed it up after the knitting is done with the yarn tail because the mitt feels more comfy that way. Finally, I prefer the mitt to end at the base of my fingers.

These mitts give me all that. Hope you like them. There is a handy “Print & PDF” button at the bottom left that you can use to take this pattern with you. We have a few other free patterns around here so check them out. You might find something else you like.

One more thing: I’ve written this pattern with a generic “TWT”. That’s where you twist the next two stitches. You can use a right leaning twist or a left leaning twist; I’ve included instructions for both. I made one mitt with all right twists and the other with all lefts for that mirrored effect.

Enjoy!

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Sizes

Small: for palms that are 7 – 8 in (18 – 20 cm) in diameter

Large: for palms that are 9 – 10 in (23 – 25 cm) in diameter

Yes, there is a significant gap in those sizes. The pattern only works in multiples of 16 (for the cast on) and that leaves a lot in between sizes. However, these mitts are ribbed and that makes them very stretchy and accommodating. Also if you want to make a pair of mitts that falls in between sizes, you could make the small size with a larger needle. Or the large size with a smaller needle.

Materials

Yarn: 1 (2 for the large size) balls of Cascade 220 Superwash worsted weight

Cascade 220 Superwash Yarn – $7.86
Retail Price: $10.50
You Save: $2.64
from: Craftsy

Needles: Size 6 (4mm) DPNs. You can use circulars for most of the glove, but you’re going to need DPNs to finish the thumb

Other stuff: 2 stitch markers, a tapestry needle & some waste yarn to hold stitches

Gauge

 33 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) in unstretched 2 x 2 ribbing.

If you do a gauge swatch (and you should), be sure to do it in the round! Most knitters gauge changes some when the knit in the round versus working back and forth.  

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

TWT – twist the next two stitches Right leaning twist – knit into the second stitch on the left needle but leave on, knit into the first stitch on the left needle, then slide both stitches off (video here) Left leaning twist – knit into the back loop of the second stitch on the left needle but leave on, knit into the first stitch on the left needle, then slide both stitches off (video here)

p2tog – purl next two stitches together (a decrease)

m1R – a right leaning increase

m1L – a left leaning increase

Jimmy Beans Wool has a nice tutorial on m1R & m1L with both written and video instructions.

sm – slip marker

Cast on 48 (64) sts. Join to work in the round.

Rnd 1 & 2: *k2, p2* repeat to end

Rnd 3: *TWT, p2, k2, p2* repeat to end

Rnd: 4 & 5: *k2, p2* repeat to end

Rnd 6: *k2, p2, TWT, p2* repeat to end

Work Rnds 1-6 for a total of 5 times (30 rounds).

 

(begin wrist)

Rnd 1: *k2, p2tog* repeat to end. 36 (48) sts

Rnd 2: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 3: *TWT, p, k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 4 & 5: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 6: *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

Rnd 7 & 8: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 9: *TWT, p, k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 10 & 11: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 12: *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

 

(begin thumb gusset)

Rnd 1: *k2, p* 6 (8) times, place marker, m1R, place marker, *k2, p* repeat to end.   37 (49) sts

Rnd 2: *k2, p* to marker, sm, k, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 3: *TWT, p, k2, p* to marker, sm, m1R, k, m1L, sm, *TWT, p, k2, p* repeat to end. 39 (51) sts

Rnd 4: *k2, p* to marker, sm, k2, p, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 5: *k2, p* to marker, sm, m1R, k2, p, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end. 40 (52) sts

Rnd 6: *k2, p, TWT, p* to marker, sm, k, TWT, p, sm, *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

Rnd 7: *k2, p* to marker, sm, m1R, k, m1L, k2, p, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end. 42 (54) sts

Rnd 8: *k2, p* to marker, sm, k2, p, k2, p, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 9: *TWT, p, k2, p* to marker, sm, TWT, p, k2, p, m1L, sm, *TWT, p, k2, p* repeat to end. 43 (55) sts

Rnd 10: *k2, p* to marker, sm, k2, p, k2, p, k, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 11: *k2, p* to marker, sm, k2, p, k2, p, m1R, k, m1L, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end. 45 (57) sts

Rnd 12: *k2, p, TWT, p* to marker, sm, k2, p, TWT, p, k2, p, sm, *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

Rnd 13: *k2, p* to marker, sm, *k2, p* three times, m1L, sm, *k2, p* repeat to end. 46 (58) sts

Rnd 14: *k2, p* to marker, sm, *k2, p* three times, k, sm, *k2, p*

Rnd 15:  *TWT, p, k2, p* to marker, sm, TWT, p, k2, p, TWT, p, m1R, k, m1L, sm, *TWT, p, k2, p* repeat to end. 48 (60) sts

 

(begin palm)

Rnd 1: *k2, p* to marker. Slip the 12 sts between the markers onto holder (markers can be removed) and continue *k2, p* to end. 36 (48 sts)

Rnd 2: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 3: *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

Rnd 4 & 5: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 6: *TWT, p, k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 7 & 8: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 9: *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

Repeat Rnds 4 – 8. Bind off in pattern.

 

(finish thumb)

Pick up 12 sts, join new yarn & work in the round.

Rnd 1 & 2: *k2, p* repeat to end

Rnd 3: *k2, p, TWT, p* repeat to end

Rnd 4 & 5: *k2, p* repeat to end

Bind off loosely. Weave in ends and use the one you have from joining new yarn for the thumb to take care of that pesky gusset hole. Here is a short photo tutorial on how I close mine.